Dragoslava's Kievian Rus Hat Documentation

  
Hat 1 In Progress


Hat 2 In Progress


Hats Done

(Kataryna's Note: Kievian Rus in this documentation means the location not necessarily the time period of the same name)

Kievian Rus Hat Documentation

 This hat is from Kievian Rus – in the area of present day Ukraine, and is seen in period paintings

Common from 1122 (Mosaic Portrait of Alexius Comnenus from 1122 – Byzantine (Art of The Byzantine Era, pg 120), Emperor John II Comnenus in Sancta Sophia ~1118 (Art of The Byzantine Era, pg 120) ). 1259 Wall painting at Boyana of the donar near Sophia; the hat is on Queen Dessislava, painting inscriptions are in Slavic script (Art of The Byzantine Era, pg 189). Also, the Head of King Uros in Church or the Trinity at Sopocani ~ 1265 (Art of The Byzantine Era, pg 201). For a hat with a fur trim there is a painting of Saint Jacob of Persia at Staro Nagoricino which has fur trimmed and is from ~1317 (Art of The Byzantine Era, pg 204). 

Second half of the 13th century, Slavic manuscripts with painting of Boris and Gleb
                (
The Painting of the Great Novgorod, pg 277, 278, 279)

Boris_&_gleb.jpg (366 × 550 pixel, file size: 162 KB, MIME type: image/jpeg)
14th-century icon of Sts Boris and Gleb from the State Russian Museum.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boris_and_Gleb 

Novgorod 1377 in the museum of Novgorod painting Boris and Gleb on Horses
                (
The Painting of the Great Novgorod, pg 329, 330, 331)

SS Boris and Gleb on Horseback
School: Moscow
Mid-14th century
128 x 75 cm
The Tretyakov Gallery, Moscow, Russia
Cat No. ДР-1129
http://www.icon-art.info/masterpiece.php?lng=en&mst_id=450&top_id=&mode=img

On Women these hats are seen in pictures of the Daughters of Yaroslav the Wise.

There are two pictures one from 1651 manuscript that details a wall painting that was later painted over (See the picture in the Russian Historical Costume, pg 44, 45) and the second from a restoration of the original 11th century painting found on Wikipedia.

Full resolution (836 × 590 pixel, file size: 53 KB, MIME type: image/jpeg)
Daughters of Yaroslav the Wise.
An 11th-century fresco from the St. Sophia Cathedral in Kiev.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Yardaughters.jpg

These hats would have been worn by the general populous; for warmth in colder climates, but the hats of wealthy would have been more elaborately decorated.

The raw materials that would have been used to make the hat would be wool, and brocades or velvet for the rich. They would have decorated with fresh water pearls, glass beads, gold thread and cord, and elaborate embroidery.  (History of Ukrainian Costume, pages 16 to 18)

To make this hat synthetic brocade was used. Glass pearls, fake gold cord, and real mink fur was used for the decoration. It was interlined with heavy canvas to help the hat hold its shape and lined with synthetic “silk”. The reason for these choices was finances and availability.

Next time I would use the correct materials to make the hat.

Bibliography

Rice, David Talbot, “Art of The Byzantine Era”, Frederick A. Praeger Inc. Publishers, 3rd printing 1966.

Smirnova, Engelina Sergeevna, “Zhivopis’ Velikogo Novgoroda (The Painting of the Great Novgorod 13 to 15th century)”, 1976.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boris_and_Gleb

http://www.icon-art.info/masterpiece.php?lng=en&mst_id=450&top_id=&mode=img

Giliarovskaia, Nadezhda V. “Russkii Istoricheskii Kostium (Russian Historical Costume)”, 1945.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Yardaughters.jpg

Tkach, Yuri ? “History of Ukrainian Costume (from Scythian to late 17th century)” Bayda Books, 1986.